Carolyn Tillie's Ultimate California Wine Blog

Wolf Family Vineyards - 171

As a special surprise birthday present, Doug Wolf bought for his wife, Jane, a *small* house quietly nestled on the edge of the Mayacamas Mountain foothills in St. Helena. Living in San Francisco, this was not going to be a permanent residence, but a weekend getaway that is often inhabited by the family moreso during the summer months. The elegant and stately old house was built in the mid-1800s and happened to be in the middle of roughly 29 acres of vineyard grapes.

This was in 1997 and at the time, the grapes (mostly merlot!) were owned and managed by the Jaeger family. The Wolfs did not buy the estate for the purpose to make wine, but when you have quality acreage in St. Helena, you can either sell off your bounty to other winemakers, or make the wine yourself. Wolf Family Vineyards was born! The merlot was pulled out and replaced with cabernet sauvignon and Karen Culler was hired as the consulting winemaker. She has been responsible for producing Wolf's namesake wine from the very first vintage.

I was extremely fortunate to have Karen show me around the property on a very warm afternoon. A small building was constructed to produce the wine along with a tiny cave that Karen calls a doll's cave due to its diminutive size. The cave is so small, it can only hold one vintage's worth of barrels and on the day of our visit, she had just had the 2004 vintage removed, readying the cave for the incoming 2005 grapes. The production level of Wolf's wine varies each year, but the cave itself cannot hold more than 1,000 cases and they have never produced much more than that with their three total offerings.

The beauty of the surrounding property is astounding. The reservoir has a spouting fountain which can be admired from a water-front gazebo or the adjacent expansive vistas. Surrounding gardens include the decorative from dahlias and roses, to the pratical tomatoes and strawberries. Entirely envious of the family, it must be emphasized that this is not a winery open to the public -- or even by appointment -- and I have refrained from showing the gorgeous house to respect their privacy.

I am infinitely grateful to Ms. Culler for taking quality time during harvest to show me around and allow me to taste the wines. There is no website from which to order the wine. If you want it, I would suggest contacting some of the more prestigious wine stores around the United States. A quick glance through Wine-Searcher shows Wolf Family wines available, mostly in California but some also in New York.

2004 Sauvignon Blanc - 40 cases produced. Rich, classic cat piss with layers of grass. Soft, smooth entry that is textured and luxurious expanding to display hay, a bit of lemon, and a creamy meringue finish. No price - unlikely to be purchasable.

2002 Cabernet Franc - 120 cases produced. 85% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. I believe in previous vintages, this wine is occasionally sold as a Meritage. Karen explained that the blend does change every year, depending on the quality of the grapes, but that she tries to keep it CabFranc-heavy. If memory serves, it might have been the '00 or '01 vintage that was CabSauv-heavy. This offering is a dark, inky blackish red in color with layers of aromas including dark cherry, herbal, and noted terroir. The taste shows spice and well-balanced minerals with a tease of intense violet. The silky texture entices with a slightly minty finish. Internet searches show this wine between $50 and $65.

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - 700 cases produced. 100% Cabernet, this wine is dark with earthy currant and blackberry notes. The entry is initially a little sweet and then blossoms to a rich middle palate of dark spice, developed oak and black fruit, and a finish showing depth and elegance. $60

Wolf Family Vineyards (Office information) ~ 3701 Sacramento Street, #366 ~ San Francisco ~ CA ~ 94118 ~ 707-963-6042

Napa Cellars - 157

I have long admired the Napa Cellars' logo. The clean pen-and-ink drawing of an up-turned hand, scrolled elegantly upward. It is the type of script that makes me believe it actually says something, but I'm not brilliant enough to see it. What is the orb floating above the hand? A grape? The world? Is the hand waiting to grasp what is plunging downwards towards the grasp or has the hand just flung the sphere into the air? Questions like this plague me, I'm afraid and I doubt I will ever have a definitive answer. But I like it, regardless.

Napa Cellars is one of the first wineries that greets visitors entering the Napa Valley via Highway 29. The building is a Bucky-Fuller geodesic dome (albeit a slightly squashed, low-slung dome). It is one of the rare down-valley wineries boasting a public picnic facility -- something of a rarity I have come to learn.

Despite the impression that the building is mildly squat, the interior tasting room is surprisingly open with its vaulted ceilings and sky lights. During my visit, some first time wine tasters were visiting from out-of-state and the pouring staff were extremely helpful in the instruction of Wine-Tasting 101. This is actually rather refreshing as I have witnessed far too many occasions where those just starting out were treated with more condescension instead of congeniality. Easy to drink and affordable, Napa Cellars is a great place to begin when first visiting the Napa Valley.

2004 Vin Gris - An odd rosé blend of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Pale, pink color with fresh berry aromas that is only a tad sweet on entry. Surprisingly integrated and not too tangy. Fresh finish. $14.95

2002 Napa Valley Zinfandel - From south St. Helena, this produces a rich, soft nose of dark spice including nutmeg and clove that just barely hides a hint of black pepper. Chocolate entry sweetens in the mid-palate to a long, dry finish of cocoa. $19.75

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - Toasty nose with a touch of green bell pepper. Dry entry produces cedar and dark berry. The finish was a tad thin. $25.75

2001 Napa Valley Syrah - From a north Napa vineyard, only 500 cases were produced. Sweet licorice and blackberry liqueur show richness and complexity. Chewy mouth entry expands with dark fruit and vanilla. $32.50

2001 Late Harvest Zinfandel - Full bodied and rich, a medium amount of herbs keeps it from being overly sweet. Integrated fruit and cocoa. $29.75

Napa Cellars ~ 7481 St. Helena Highway ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-944-2565

Raymond - 156

In the Napa valley, between Highway 29 and the Silverardo Trail, there are just a few access roads that connect to two main arteries which keep the life blood of America's most famous wine area flowing. For visitors to the Napa valley, it is exactly those wineries on the 29 and the Silverado Trail which see the majority of the business. But it is those little-travelled access roads which often house worthwhile investigation. Raymond Winery is just such a find.

Zinfandel Lane is one of the connecting roads and lies just south of the town of St. Helena. There are actually only two or three public wineries on this road, the rest being appointment-only. The surprise is that I had driven past Raymond dozens of times without realizing it was there, being so well hidden by shrubbery and plant life. Driving through a maze of vines from the entrance, the winery complex comes into view, reflecting a 1950s ranch house in its epoch, lying low to the ground. Despite the sense of entering fifty-year old time warp, the landscaping is open, vast, and inviting due to the predominance of colorful flowers.

The tasting room is similarly austere with a touch of non-tangible nostaligia. There is nothing specific in alluding to the age; perhaps it is merely the architecture. The tasting room is not overwhelmed with retail items and the pouring staff is extremely gracious and helpful. The big draw? The wines -- truly excellent quality juice at moderately affordable prices. At a production level of 300,000 cases, it is an impressive facility that is producing a LOT of wine worth tasting:

2003 Napa Valley Reserve Sauvignon Blanc - Golden bouquet of melon and tropical fruit. Very smooth, easy mouth feel with a touch of cream and no stridency. Crisp finish that keeps going, finishing with a heightened green apple flavor. $12.50

2003 Napa Valley Reserve Chardonnay - At a caseload production of almost 25,000 cases, this is a  pretty substantial amount of wine. Fresh fruit of pear, mango, and papaya aromas. The smooth, soft entry seems a bit flabby to me, but finishes with a bit more richness than anticipated. $18.00

1995 Merlot Reserve - Port-like dusty floral bouquet. Dark, integrated, toasty flavors of twigs and a faint finish of mint. Reasonable deal if drunk immediately. (On a special sell-off; $90 a case)

2001 Rutherford Reserve Merlot - Relatively small production of only 500 cases. 99% Merlot, 1% Cabernet. Classic Rutherford dust aromas that were slightly sweet with a touch of green pepper. Intense nose that continued into the mouth entry with dark red fruit and a long, balanced finish. $30.00

2001 St. Helena Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot. Almost 1,000 cases. Rich dark red wine displaying dark spice and plum in the nose. Easy, smooth mouth entry of rich blackberry and refined spices in the complex finish. 13.8% alcohol! $45.00

2001 Rutherford Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - 99% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Merlot. Almost 1,000 cases. Hugh, spicy aromas that were surprisingly Syrah-like in blackness; dark fruit, blackberry liqueuer, and dark florals. Sweet entry exudes some dusty floral qualities. The wine smelled older and more developed than it tasted. Easy to drink now, but with a developed integration and supple mouthfeel that will only improve with age. $45.00

2000 Generations Cabernet Sauvignon - Dark spicy pepper and Moroccan spices with a touch of earth in its bouquet. Rich, dark flavors with some green bell pepper and mostly complex, dark currant, berry, and tobacco flavors. $65.00

Raymond Vineyard & Cellar ~ 849 Zinfandel Lane ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 800-525-2659

Rombauer - 151

I have known of Rombauer's reputation for a while. They are one of the stalwart well-loved Chardonnays that has become so popular, it makes up over 60% of their 60,000-case production. That is quite substantial for any winery and if you are going to stake your reputation on one wine, it had best be good. My friend, Lisa, was driving and she was the one who told me about their Chardonnay, but it was the salesman at the counter who confirmed its popularity with the statistics.

The buildings at Rombauer are incredibly well-hidden amongst the trees, atop a small hill which lies just west off the Silverado Trail. In fact, their road-side sign is a bit small and it is quite easy to whiz right past them on the trail. As you drive up the uphill, windy road, a patriotic cow is visible -- seemingly exiting from the heavy brush on its way to the tasting room.

Greg Graham has been the winemaker at Rombauer for over twenty years - longevity of this sort is almost unheard of in the Napa Valley. The tasting room is small a bedecked with a wide variety of aeronautic paraphernalia and family remembrances. One other note - this is one of those rare, north of St. Helena wineries with picnic tables for guests who want to stay and relax for a while.

I had not put two-and-two together before my visit, but it was Lisa who told me that the Rombauer name was indeed the Rombauer who wrote The Joy of Cooking. Koerner and John started the winery and great-aunt Irma wrote the cookbook. I guess the foodie in me was a bit surprised that despite a handful of the books for sale in the hospitality room, this framed picture was the extent of their affiliation with the classic tome.

2002 Merlot - Cherry and dark current with a layer of vanilla spice shows in the nose. Slightly hot entry smooths out to display a lingering vanilla finish. $28.75

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon - 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Core of blueberry with a whisper of green olive and dried herbs. Dry entry bursts with fruit and finishes with supple spice. $36.75

2002 Napa Zinfandel - Decidedly fruity red in aroma and initial taste. The fruit bomb explodes into spice showing cinnamon and pepper. Sweet mid-palate with a long, lingering fruity finish. $25.00

2004 Chardonnay - Another winery that pours Chardonnay at the end. I wonder if it is a tactical plan to make the palate heightened with the tannins but then introduce a wine which will of course taste more distinct? At a 100% malo, the bouquet showed both dark tropical fruit as well as white stonefruit. The mouth entry was sweet (no surprise!) with a tangy mid-section and a touch of cream on the finish. I was fascinated by the customer or two who walked in to buy a Chardonnay and never realized that Rombauer made other wines... $29.75

Rombauer Vineyards ~ 3522 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5170

Frank Family Vineyards - 147

I've had a lot of friends asking me to head to Frank Family Vineyards for some time. One reason is that I am especially drawn to historical locations. In this case, while the Frank family themselves have only been in the wine industry since the early 1990s, the location and some of the remaining buildings date back to the early 1880s.

It is the front building that has been 'plaqued' as an historic landmark, having once been the Larkmead Winery (which now has me on an investigative journey to go and visit the new home of Larkmead as it seems the patriarch sold this estate in the 1950s).

During my visit, the historical building in the front was closed down. I was there on a weekend so I can only assume the building is used for winemaking in some fashion, but I did not get to peer inside and who knows - maybe it is just there for storage these days... There is a smaller, house-like structure behind the stone edifice which now acts as the hospitality suite and tasting room.

The entrance to the tasting is somewhat of an anteroom that acts as the location of the cash register as well as where some bubbly is tasted first. After a bit of sparkling, you wander through a hallway of some several thousand photographs of friends and family. The second tasting room lies in the back of the house and not only contains memorabilia of Rich Frank's former life as chairman of Walt Disney's musical division (this means there are gold records on the wall). The grounds are lovely to walk around and some picnic tables sitting behind the back building seem inviting as they were already half full.

2000 Champagne Reserve - Yep, they call it Champagne and not "sparkling wine." Four months on French oak and five years on yeast, finished with Remi cognac (that would actually be Carneros-based RMS Alembic that went out of business several years ago and sold off barrels of their product). Very smooth and nice with flavors of apple and hazelnut. Decent combination of sweetness and yeast. $55.00

NV Rouge - 100% Pinot Noir. Light almondine garnet colored. Slightly fishy aroma with bright cranberry flavors and a metallic finish. $27.75

2004 Chardonnay - They call it liquid creme brulee in a glass. At a 100% malo having spent two months in French oak, this wine has pretty thick banana aromas with some caramel and toffee. Viscous and vanilla-flavored, the wine was still tight and possibly suffering from bottle shock. $32.50

2003 Zinfandel - From Browns Valley. They call this the Velvet Hammer. (Seems they name all their wine). At 16% alcohol, this is a pretty heady wine showing strong black plum and blackberry aromas with a back-nose of chocolate. The mouth entry was relatively soft but explodes with black licorice. Spice and chocolate present themselves before the dark plummy finish. $34.95

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon - An initial tease of green bell pepper subsided with a swirl and produced more pronounced mushroom and dark fruit. Distinct cedar taste on first taste which evolved to produce dusty cocoa and a hint of eucalyptus. The tannins were balanced and even and the core finish was meaty blackberry. $39.75

2000 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - From Rutherford. Dark, inky purple wine that seemed mostly comprised of chocolate. Huge, brawny tannins brightened to chewy cranberry flavors. Needs time. $65.00

Frank Family Vineyards ~ 1091 Larkmead Lane ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 800-574-9463

Rancho de las Flores Cellars/Wermuth Winery - 146

There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle-ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man's fears and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area we call the 'Twilight Zone.' Those were the words that Rod Serling used to open what could arguably be called the most influential television show of the 1950s. It is also the feeling that one experiences when spending time at Rancho de las Flores (no website link available) owned by Ralph Wermuth.

Located just off the Silverado Trail, this is a winery that could very easily be driven past if you are not paying very close attention. The small house and the building that acts as the tasting room lie behind such overgrown shrubbery that the Twilight Zone analogy is not far from the truth. One wonders if there is anything behind the massive foliage. The building is extremely non-descript and a bit worn. As we approached, a gentleman followed behind us and we had the pleasure of meeting proprietor, Ralph Wermuth.

The Twilight Zone feeling continued as Ralph is definitely a character. Indicating I was in the industry, he started asking if we had as much problem with the "other countries' trade barriers" as he did. He is obviously concerned about those "other countries." I implied that we did not really export to Europe yet but were just beginning to work on that. "No, not Europe," he emphasized. "The other countries like Massachusetts and those damn trade barriers!" Distinctly odd... The tasting room? Well, the cobwebs were evident, the glasses were dirty, and the wine was, well... interesting, to say the least. But spending a few minutes with Ralph is worth a visit.

White Wine - I'm serious. That is what his label reads. A viscous, dark yellow, it is mostly Colombard grapes with a splash of Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of a biting apple cider with harsh minerals. The entry is sweet with a tang in the middle. Mostly grassy flavors and a harsh finish. $12.00

Amigo Viejo - 100% Gamay. Biting sweet nose. Chewy blackberry that showed oxidization. Strident to the point of painful with a biting, metallic finish. $15.00

Rancho de las Flores Cellars ~ 3942 Silverado Trail ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 707-942-5924

Milat - 139

Milat is another small family-owned winery which lies on the main stretch of Highway 29 in Napa. One of the immediate draws is that it is one of the few tasting rooms that stays open late, until 6:00 p.m. What is little known about Milat is that the family has been growing and supplying grapes to winemakers from their 22-acre ranch since 1949.

Although they only produce under 4,000 cases of wine, they do so under two labels; the Milat label and another called Pine Station. The Pine Station label are those grapes that are not worthy of the single-varietal blending and make up a few of the blends produced under the Pine Station moniker.

The tasting room is small and relatively unadorned. Sometimes there is something nice about a no-nonsense approach to what a tasting room is for; one goes to taste wine and the need for t-shirts and decorations and jewelry is secondary. The bloke pouring wine the day I was there was a member of the extended family - a nephew or something, but was extremely engaging and gregarious. A great time was had by all.

2004 Milat Chenin Blanc - A blend of 73% Chenin Blanc, 25% Chardonnay, and 2% unknown. With 1.5% residual sugar, the clear bright offering showed a hint of sweet white melon. The slightly effervescent mouth entry was generally pleasant and would be fine on a hot afternoon. $18.00

2004 Pine Station Rosé - A very odd blend of Merlot, Zinfandel, and Chardonnay, this rosé is made with Epernay yeast which gives it a slightly fizzy mouthfeel. The aromas were of fresh, bright currant and cranberry. Simple and easy without too much sugar, but little outstanding flavor and no finish. $9.00

2002 Pine Station Red - 44% Cabernet, 29% Merlot, and 27% Zinfandel. Dominate wood aromas of oak, cedar, and pine, then some exotic Moroccan spice presents itself in the back of the nose. A tad to woody for my tastes. Flavors include black fruit, cumin, coriander, and a distinctly sage finish. Medium bodied. $18.00

2002 Zinfandel - Intense ripe red cherry layered with light spice. Fresh and smooth, a medium-bodied zinfandel with some clove on the end. $23.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon - Initial aroma of green bell pepper then dark herbs. After a swirl or two, black plum and oak present themselves. A tad harsh on the mouth entry. The dark fruit seems a bit thin and pale on the end. $36.00

2001 Zivior, Port-style - 95% Zinfandel and 5% Towiga Vaciona. An odd port in that it seemed a cross between a ruby and tawny, trying to determine what it wanted to be. the were dusty floral tones with a hint of nuts. The mouth entry was viscous and sweet with some depth, but not enough to entice me. $25.00/375ml

Milat ~ 1091 St. Helena Highway South ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-0168

Robert Biale Vineyards - 136 & WBW!

This is a truly exciting post for me. To start, it is Wine Blog Wednesday where Brother Lenn has asked us to Drink Local. The assignment this month is to go and find the winery closest to your home. To my knowledge, I am the only blogger who actually lives in Napa so I have a distinct advantage over say, someone living in Utah... But in a way it was actually a bit difficult. My initial thoughts were that I was either in close proximity to either Laird or Trefethen. I initially posted on Lenn's site that at least I didn't live next to Screaming Eagle, which would have been decidedly expensive! I started perusing GoogleMaps and asked winemaker Karen Culler about a suspicious plot of vineyards that I had never noticed before and it is truly fabulous to have access to great people who can help answer questions...

A phone call or two later and some time spent on GoogleMaps and I see that a mile-and-a-half (as the crow flies) or 2.8 driving miles away from my humble abode lies a winery about which I knew nothing, Robert Biale Vineyards. So here I get to kill two birds with one stone -- a brand new entry in my ongoing blog as well as a really cool installment to WBW! Serendipity was definitely at play here, as the Biale tasting room has been open a whopping two weeks!

The facilities are brand spanking new, but these guys are hardly the new kids on the block. Robert Biale's family started growing Zinfandel grapes in Napa in the 1920s and now specializes in local historic vineyards. A third generation Napan, Robert has a reliable and dedicated crew (if Jayme, whom I met during my visit, is any indication).

Along with producing vineyard-specific zinfandels (some from 100+ year-old vines), with Al Perry heading up winemaking, additional very cool varietals now carry the Biale moniker; Petite Sirah, Syrah, Barbera, and Sangiovese. Al works closely with the growers from whence Biale's grapes are grown and feels passionately about these grapes which are distinctly Californian.

As indicated, Jayme was the host for the day in the newly-built tasting room. It is an appointment-only establishment, but one worth seeking out, if only to hear the story of the black chicken... But go and taste and buy these wines. They are astonishing in their character and distinct disposition; worthy of aging as their depth shows, but astonishing young.

2003 Grande Zinfandel - This was the second vintage from the Rossi Vineyards produced under the Biale name. The wine is slighty cloudy dark garnet in color and at first demonstrates rich blackberry and boysonberry liqueur aromas, immediately giving way to aromas of freshly-cracked black pepper, sweet and aromatic. The mouth entry is smooth and continues the blackberry tones, but expands to reveal hints of herbs and rich, complex finish. $40.00

2002 Monte Rosso, Sonoma Valley Zinfandel - Sweet cherry nose that is distinctly berry in structure. Developed with deep floral qualities and a long, spicy finish thatis not biting or hot. The Monte Rosso is specifically 110-year old vines and the wine certainly shows its pedigree. $46.00

2002 Thomann Station Petite Sirah - From famous vineyards in St. Helena near Sutter Home, this wine is inky black red and produces a bouquet of elegant licorice, blackberry liqueur, and faint hint of ground coffee. The wine coats the tongue in a supple and velvety fashion showing some brighter acid on the front with a tease of coffee on the finish. $50.00

2002 Gaudi Carli Barbera - Very enticing dark garnet red color. Floral notes that are rustic, spicy, and elegant with a touch of candied cinnamon and a whisper of sweet anise. The entry is at first smooth, silky, and touch sweet. There is more spice on the nose than on the tongue. The acids brighten on the mid-palate and develops into a long, structured finish. $35.00

Robert Biale Vineyards ~ 4038 Big Ranch Road ~ Napa ~ CA 94558 ~ 707-257-7555

Vineyard 29 - 115

Vineyard 29 is a relative new-comer on the block. While their first vintage was officially produced in 1992, it was the completion of their astonishing gravity-method wine-making facility which was finished in 2001 that put them on the map. Okay, maybe having Heidi Barrett-Peterson as their winemaker from 1992 until 1998 didn't hurt...

Vineyard 29 is thus named because of its physical address: 2929 Highway 29. It was established in 1989 by Theresa Norton and Tom Paine who had to utilize the services of custom crush facility; i.e., they had the vineyards but not the wine making equipment or building. In early 2000, Theresa and Tom wanted to retire and found in Chuck and Anne McMinn a couple with enough passion to take over and expand the label.

And expand they did. After designing the most technologically-advanced facility feasible, they also began acquiring additional vineyards beyond the initial Grace Family Vineyards three acres purchased. Just a few miles north of where the winery was under construction, the Aida vineyards became available. Known for astounding Zinfandel and Petite Sirah grapes, the Aida vineyard and the Grace Family vineyards became the soul of the new Vineyard 29.

Besides being the most stunning gravity-method winery I've ever seen, another factor that adds to Vineyard 29's allure is an ecological one; the winery is operated with three natural gas turbines. This is one of the many steps required to becoming a Green winery and apparently the applications are already in place for that status.

The 13,000 feet of caves are a continuation of the marvel of engineering. It is only when you walk in that motion sensors begin to illuminate the cavern. It was noticeably cooler as I could sense air actually being moved, I inquired about air conditioning. No; condenser fans pull in cool air from the nearby Sauvignon Blanc vineyards and provide a natural coolant to the interior.

The very rear of the cave portal is a storage facility of current and library wines. I was extremely fortunate to be able to provide the documentation for this visit, and while I  had the honor to meet Chuck and Ann during my tour, the facilities are not open to the public, except to those already on Vineyard 29's acquisition list. After tasting the wines, this is a list I would like to be on:

2001 Aida Zinfandel - Slightly cloudy with concentrated dark brick tones on the edges. Aromas of dusty, dark blackberry and black cassis. It hits the tongue with spicy black licorice and immediately evens out with an opulent spicy liqueur tone of dark berry. Intense, lingering finish. $60.00

2001 Aida Red Wine - 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26 % Merlot. Brick red-edged color with dark purple core. Intense, concentrated plum and dark berry notes play with molasses on the nose. Moroccan spice components reveal cardamom and Nag Champa. Wild black strawberries enter the mouth and explode with elegant spice. Complex and elegant, a heightened acidity brightens the mid-palate and toys a bit, before smoothing out to a long, luxurious finish. $75.00

2001 Vineyard 29 - 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. I brought a few friends along and the initial response was "this is what angels drink in heaven..."  Teasing aromas of fig, blueberry, cinnamon, amber, and lignum aloes shows a dark floral tone with integrated spice. The mouth entry is as dark and spicy as it portends but surprises with a sweetening in the mid-palate. The licorice finish continues to entice and seems to never end. $125.

Vineyard 29 ~ 2929 Highway 29 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-9292

Freemark Abbey - 111

Freemark Abbey is another winery that holds special memories for me. During those early years of driving up to Napa from Southern California, this was one of the standard stops for their much-loved dessert wine and I bought a beloved grape-festooned necklace that I still pull out on special occasions -- but I get ahead of myself.

I have categorized the Abbey under two appellations; St. Helena, because their physical location is within the St. Helena appellation, lying just north of the town in almost the last stretch of public wineries before the town of Calistoga, and Rutherford, for they are renown for their single-vineyard Rutherford Dust Cabernet Sauvignon. The other tremendously special aspect of Freemark Abbey is historical -- it was the first winery in California to be built and operated by a woman, Josephine Marlin Tychson (then known as Tychson Cellars).

Contrary to popular belief, the "Abbey" was never a religious order.  it is often misconstrued as such because of the nearby CIA, which was a Franciscan monastery. No, "Abbey" was the nickname Albert Ahern, one of the three business who purchased the estate in 1939. Today, the historic building area is under some renovation. Adjacent to the offices and tasting room is a lovely, newly-landscaped oak-shaded courtyard which is available to rent for private functions. It is also well worth a stroll through, just to admire its beauty.

The tasting room is large and warmly decorated with a seating area by a large fireplace. This form of hospitality is unusual as many tasting rooms purposefully keep guests from staying; seats promote lengthy stays and voluminous drinking. By having such a prominent display of welcome shows trust and comfort with guests that is refreshing. Oh yeah, and the folks working behind the bar are pretty nice, too.

2003 Napa Valley Viognier - Sweet tangerine and honeysuckle on the nose. Diving crisp entry that expands to show white stone fruit with a bright mid-palate and a finish that is partly tangy and partly creamy. $25.00

2003 Napa Valley Chardonnay - Rich, full-bodied aromas of elegant apple and pear with a hint of caramel. Vibrant mouthfeel that invokes both green apple and citrus. Shockingly rich considering this wine saw no malo. Lovely. $19.00

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet - 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Expansive aromas of black cherry, nutmeg, and clove. Fruit-forward entry showing black cassis. A bit bright, showing youth, but depth that anticipates age-ability. $35.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sycamore Vineyards - From the Bell Oaks Rutherford area. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc. Slightly murky, dark red in color. Hints of green bell pepper subside to show dark cocoa and hints of earth. Chocolate covered cherry and vanilla fill the mouth that shows balance and a clean, distinct finish. $55.00

2002 Napa Valley Syrah - 82% Syrah, 14% Petite Sirah, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot. Clear, garnet color. Dark plum and black pepper bouquet. Smooth, medium-bodied wine that shows well-integrated dark fruit and layered vanilla. Long, medium spiced finish shows an easy-drinking, not too over-the-top Syrah. $28.00

2000 Edelwein Gold - This is the dessert wine I am so rapturous about. It is one of the few naturally-produced Botrytis-affected wines produced in California. It is a late-harvest Riesling that does not get made every year. In fact, Freemark Abbey has only made this wine ten times in its history. The wine is a stunning golden yellow color which produces a bouquet of sweet honeysuckle with a tease towards ripe citrus. The mouth entry is silky that shows peach and honey and a lingering finish that is sweet but not saccharine

Freemark Abbey ~ Highway 29 at Lodi Lane ~ P.O. Box 410 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 800-963-9698

Parry Cellars - 97

Parry Cellars have branded themselves the smallest single vineyard in the Napa Valley. I'm not sure of the actual size of this Cabernet vineyard, located on the Silverado Trail, just north of St. Helena, but the three tons of grapes they harvested only produced 190 cases of much sought-after wine.

There is another aspect of Parry wine that is rather special; their winemaker is Andy Schweiger who owns and operates Schweiger Vineyards. Now three vintages into their lineage, one can only hope that there will be growth in the future as the stage is set for yet another exceptional Cabernet producer. No tasting room or facilities available for visiting, but a click through on their website shows a reasonably priced, accessible cab worth investigating.

2001 Parry Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon - Some initial green bell pepper which blows off to show lush, dark blackberry and cassis. A sweet entry displays balance and evolves into a chewier tobacco mid-palate. An easy dark cherry finish completes the overall velvety quality of the wine. $46.00

Parry Cellars ~ 3424 Silverado Trail North ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-967-8160

Anomaly - 96

Continuing in the theme of learning about small production wineries who are members of the St. Helena Viticultural Socity, it is with great pleasure that I met the proprietors of Anomaly Vineyards. I have to admit to cheating a bit on their pictures as the ones I took of them personally were too blurry and, sadly, their facilities are not open to the public. But this is a wine worth looking for and I was especially charmed to meet Linda, who is also a women wine blogger.

I did not determine WHY they have named their winery Anomoly and intend on further investigation. At this time, this a wine that is only available through some of the finer restaurants (like French Laundry) and to those on the Anomaly mailing list. At a mere 500 cases produced, this is a wine that doesn't last very long.

2002 Anomaly Cabernet Sauvignon - Herb and green bell pepper notes up front in the nose with a bright cherry entry that teases with its petulance. Depth in its longevity, showing cedar and cinnamon on the finish. No price as none are available for sale.

Anomaly Vineyards ~ P.O. Box 741 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-967-8448

Salvestrin - 95

Salvestrin Winery is yet another I discovered at the St. Helena Viticultural Society's Ultimate Open House. The Salvestrins are part of the long lineage of Napa pioneers who began farming in the 1930s. Up until 1994, the Salvestrins farmed and sold their grapes to the likes of Freemark Abbey, Rombauer, and others.

When I met Rich and Shannon Salvestrin, I learned that although their family has been growing grapes for over seventy years, it was in 1994 that they broke ground to construct their own winery and began producing wine with their very own grapes. With 26 acres owned and farmed, they are not producing huge amounts of wine, but what is being made shows great promise in a future I will enjoy following.

2001 Salvestrin Winery Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - Clean, bright aromas of cherry and cedar. The dry mid-palate shows heightened tannins that blossom with integrated mineral tones and a green bell pepper finish. $45.00

2003 Salvestrin Estate Sangiovese - Only 100 cases were produced. Intense, classic cherry opening with heady cherry bouquet. Clean, tight acids tantalize and tease. Pity to have found out it was already sold out.

Salvestrin Winery ~ 397 Main Street ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5105

James Johnson Vineyards - 94

Bisou means "kiss" in French. It is also home to the only wine produced by James Johnson Vineyards, a Cabernet Sauvignon of exceptional quality which was introduced to me at the St. Helena Open House promoting the St. Helena Viticultural Society. The open house was a lovely afternoon, held the day after the Napa Valley Auction. The whole event proved great insight for me in learning about small producers like the Johnsons.

James himself was there, pouring his three vintages. He delights in talking about his three children, Paige, Ryan, and Ashely. He has three acres of Cabernet grapes and has named an acre each after his children. Those three acres, located in St. Helena, along with 5 1/2 acres in Lodi comprise their entire business; producing a total of 400 cases of each of the lovely wines I tasted:

2000 Bisou Home Cabernet Sauvignon - (Their first offering!) Purple tones with a fabulous integration in oak and fruit. Elegant at 14.2% alcohol. Opulent dark nose of fruit with an elegant entry including cassis and vanilla. $55.00

2001 Bisou Home Cabernet Sauvignon - Intense aromas of black plum and juicy berry. Smooth and complex with a balanced entry showing cedar, cherry, and a velvety, bright finish. $60.00

2002 Bisou Cabernet Sauvignon - From an as-yet, unreleased sample, this wine showed dark, jammy liqueur in a concentrated form. Still presenting rich fruit and heightened vanilla and oak, time will tame this fruit bomb. I am looking forward to it!

James Johnson Vineyards ~ 1030 Main Street #216 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-967-0656

Louis M. Martini - 91

When you enter the door at Louis.M.Martini, you are greeted warmly with an immediate offering of a glass of white wine, sometimes a Semillon and sometimes a Folle Blanche. The elegance is evident by the choice of decorating colors; black and red. This is a corporate-owned winery, having been purchased by Gallo several years ago and the entire establishment getting a face lift.

One of the older wineries in the Napa Valley, it is gratifying to know that even now as part of a larger, corporate entity, there are still members of the Martini family involved in the operation of the business. Started by Louis M. Martini in the 1930's, Michael Martini, his grandson, is the winemaker and helps brand the family's love into the establishment.

2002 Semillon - Crisp and lively with a clean note of melon in the balanced mouthfeel. A mineral finish that is bright and engaging. $18.00

2000 Barbera, Sun Lake Vineyard - Slightly cloudy in its garnet color. A warm, musky nose shows dark cherries and licorice. The acidic entry continues the cherry qualities with touches of aromatic wood. Smooth and engaging, a thin finish does not diminish. $24.00

2001 Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon - With 3% Merlot. Meaty, earthy tones dominate the aromas with a classically vegetal offering on the back of the nose. Warm up front in its initial taste, dried floral and twigs show in the back. $60.00

2000 Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon - With 5% Petit Verdot. Complex aromas of cassis and dark herbs that dance with dark berry tones. The cassis appears again in the mouth and explodes with opulent, spicy endings. $65.00

1998 Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon - Spicy berry predominates the aromas, but gives way to a hint of green bell pepper. Flavors interchange between black berries and tobacco with a hint of dried herbs on the finish. $75.00

2000 Sonoma Valley Monte Rosso Gnarly Old Vine Zinfandel - From vines that are reputed to be upwards of 120+ years old. Sweet spices present at first and shows a petulance of earthy spice and a lush, warm finish. $35.00

Louis.M.Martini ~ 254 St. Helena Highway ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-968-3361

Beringer - 90

Beringer is a landmark in the Napa Valley - architecturally it is a well-recognized building and it is a very well-known producer of wines. It is a fabulous location for both first-timers and seasoned professionals as there truly is something for everybody. Their claim of being the oldest continually operating winery in the Napa Valley. The drive up the perfectly-manicured landscaping is awe-inspiring, however one cannot escape the slight Disneyland-like atmosphere of having to go through a reception area where color-coded maps are presented due to the size of the estate.

The map shows pathways to various spots throughout the estate and the different locations where wine can be tasted. There are two different locations for wine tasting; a section of the Old Stone Cellars where "every day drinkers" can tasted (I skipped this area), and the famous Rhine House, where the reserve wines area available for tasting. There are also a number of tours available; both self-guided and more formal guided tours.

The reserve tasting room offers five different tasting options, all of which include three wines; a $15 Signature Series, a $16 Vineyard Showcase, an $8 Taste of Knights Valley, an $8 Anything But Cab, and a $5 Dessert Wine Selection. I did have a distinct advantage of being able to move around all these lists and pick-and-choose, but with 75 different wines being produced at Beringer (15 of which are Cabernet Sauvignon), an entire day of tasting could be devoted to going through their entire book of offerings.

2003 Sbragia Limited Release Chardonnay - 100% malo on 100% sur lees produces an intoxicating intense chardonnay. Layers of dried floral notes play with heady, complicated fruit that is ever so slightly smoky and simultaneously rich. Not yet released.

2002 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir - Candyshop raspberry aromas produced a rather acidic entry. Nice, in an easy-drinking sort of way, mostly bright red fruits and some velvet feel on the finish. $30.00

2001 Bancroft Ranch, Howell Mountain Merlot - With 4% Cabernet Franc, a deep, rich offering that would make one think it was a Cabernet Sauvignon from its intensity. Dark with black fruit and dusty cocoa in the aromas, the mouth entry showed the same darkness and a mid-palate of orange peel. $75.00

2000 Marston Vineyard Syrah - From Spring Mountain, this dark garnet-colored wine was an easy-drinking Syrah showing classic barbecue and rich soy sauce aromas. A leathery entry blossomed to display easy, well-developed spice and fruit. $35.00

2001 Diener Ranch Petite Sirah - From a Clear Lake vineyard, 26 months in oak. Inky purple in color that reveled in soy sauce, barbecue meat, and blackberry liqueur. A dry mid-palate showed higher tannins from youth, but the bright, engaging, and erotically finish anticipates a long, luxurious life. $35.00

1998 Quarry Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - From the Rutherford district, this (like most of their high-cabs), shows amazing up-front fruit that dark and elegant. Some vanilla on the mid-palate and a dustiness of cocoa on the finish makes it quintessential Rutherford. $75.00

1998 State Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - From the Yountville district, jammier than the Quarry and a tad spicier. Still opulent and rich, just a bit rounder in mouthfeel. $75.00

1998 Tre Colline Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - From Howell Mountain, considerably more concentrated than the previous two presented. Rich in roasted fig and smoked spice, velvety to the very end. $75.00

2002 Nightingale - A Botrytis wine from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Dark golden in its honeyed color, it is rich with dark stone fruit and caramel flavors. $35.00/375ml

1998 Late Harvest Johannisberg Riesling - Also Botrytis-made, initial petroleum aromas are classically handled providing an intense candied orange peel and honey flavors. Almost a bit too syrupy in its mouthfeel, this would make an elegant after-dinner drink with cheese. $20.00/375ml

Casa Nuestra - 72

Casa Nuestra has so much going for it and the real surprise and shame was that I had never heard of it. Located on the Silverado Trail, sitting between the two stalwarts of Duckhorn and Rombauer. Entirely unassuming and set-back off the main road, driving down the unpaved dirt towards the cluster of small, wooden yellow buildings is actually a passage through a time machine -- back to the 1960s.

The first indication that you are not in the 21st century, is the large, psychedelic peace sign hanging above the entrance. Of course, there is also the charming surprise of the unpretentiousness of the surroundings; goats, picnic tables, and very old, majestic trees.

Inside is a simple room with a fireplace, bedecked with posters. However, the posters are a dead giveaway again; Martin Luther King, concert posters, and more memorabilia from the psychedelic Age of Aquarius. The pouring staff, as well, seem to be a slight transplant from a more carefree age; engaging, happy, and extremely generous in their time and energy. In their jocularity, they easily relate the unpretentious, down-home philosophy of the owners: They are out to make good wine, not to pave the driveway and build a palatial mansion. And I have no doubt there would have been an opportunity to do so as they clearly own prime, valuable real estate which could have been mortgaged to build an edifice more in line with the neighborhood reputation.

The winery itself produces a limited amount of wine - 1,800 cases maximum. Surprisingly, here is yet another winery which has dispensed with the distribution system, meaning it can only be obtained through the winery itself. Not yet having advised anyone to join a wine club, a single offering through Casa Nuestra almost had me a member; a club-only blend entitled Tinto Classico.

Lastly, for visitors coming to the Napa Valley, a major plus for Casa Nuestra's picnic tables and your dining neighbors, two Nubian goats Nava and Cross who will happily share your offerings. I had no food during the day of my visit, but both goats still romped over to have their picture taken!

2004 Dry Chenin Blanc, Green Valley - Very clear, pale greenish tint in color with pronounced honeydew melon and fresh green apple aromas. Intensely refreshing and exhilarating with crisp acidity that enhances but not overpowers. $15.00

2004 Off Dry Riesling, St. Helena Estate - What great fun - tangerine and intoxicatingly exotic fruits in the nose do not overwhelm with sweetness at only .8% residual sugar. Stunningly balanced demonstrates crispness and a clean pineapple mid-palate that has a long, intense finish. $19.00

2003 Tinto Classico, Old Vines, Oakville Estate - I felt very fortunate to taste this wine-club members'-only wine; a field-blend of an old-clone Zinfandel, Cabernet Pfeffer, Alicante Bouschet, Carignane, Petite Sirah, Mouvedre, Refosco, Napa Gamay, and Pinot Noir. This was a stunningly complex wine which teased with both hints of tobacco and heightened with raspberry. The entry was jammy with plum and hints of cocoa. I found both spice and and dark cherry on the finish which was long and exciting. NFS

2002 Cabernet Franc, St. Helena Estate - Dark ruby with purple tones, aromas of dark fruit and hints of dried floral qualities of lavender and violet. The mouth entry was dark and fruity, showing both plum and dark berry but the finish was a bit dry. $32.00

2002 Meritage, St. Helena Estate - A classic blend of 54% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 9% Cabernet Franc. Still a bit young with over oak and fruit just barely hiding hints of greenish which will undoubtedly bow out with age. Even, balanced entry blossomed in the mid-palate and the bright, tannic finish supported my initial thoughts of youth. $45.00

Casa Nuestra ~ 3451 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5783

Chateau Boswell - 68

Chateau Boswell is one that has intrigued me for some time because of its old-world charm and style in architecture. It lies on the Silverado Trail, beyond Deer Park towards Calistoga. I hazard to guess it is a part of the Trail that is far less traveled as many folks tends towards the town of St. Helena before venturing up that far. Pity that, for a number of exceptional wineries lie up in that vicinity.

Chateau Boswell is not a very well known name due to their limited production; 300 cases of an already-sold-out Chardonnay, 330 cases of a Cuvée, and barely 165 cases of a Reserve Cabernet. Started 1979 by Dr. R. Thornton and Susan Boswell, it is still family-owned and operated. The grapes are grown organically, but not yet certified as such.

When I visited, I was surprised to meet Susan Boswell herself pouring wine and greeting customers. I was fortunate that they are usually only open by appointment and that I stumbled upon an open tasting room on a Saturday. Susan even admitted that her son usually does the tastings. She did explain that all the wines are dedicated to members of the family and that each year she designs a special back label with custom artwork in those dedications.

The tasting room is barely that -- a small enclave with antiques which lies adjacent to the barrel room of the winery. There is a hint of mustiness in the air which seems to compliment the surroundings. I tasted two of the offerings during my visit, both of which were exceptional.

2002 Jacquelynn Cuvée -- Named after their daughter, this is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc, both from the Stags Leap District. Intensely opulent without the classic dirty Stags Leap flavors I tend to expect. Aromas of dark berry and hints of mocha with balanced tannins that produce concentrated, well-structured fruit and a silky, lingering finish. $64.00

2002 Renaissance Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - Allowing me to taste a sold-out wine is usually a sure sign I am going to want it... Dark aromas of well-integrated blackberry, cassis, oak, and spice successfully anticipate the elegant entry and mouth feel of this wine. 100% new French oak is evident with hints of smoke on the back palate, just barely subsiding to the velvety finish. $94.00

Chateau Boswell ~ 3468 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 707-963-5472

V. Sattui - 67

V. Sattui is a tad controversial for a variety of reason. Mostly, it is scoffed at by some wine geeks and locals because it is such a magnet for tourist crowds. With its long-standing history, it is one of the few wineries in the valley that allows picnicking on the grounds. Subsequently, on a hot summer afternoon, the grassy area out front could be literally swamped with bodies.

There are a number of anomalies related to V. Sattui -- of note, they do not utilize the distribution system known throughout the wine industry. What does this mean for the consumer? It means that you will never find a V. Sattui wine on a store shelf but are able to have it shipped directly to you, wherever you live (except, of course, Utah).

The picnic area thrives in part because of the tremendously stocked cheese shop and deli. I had visited once during the crush of the crowds and it was only upon a second, quieter visit that I was able to appreciate the quality selection of the cheeses offered. With service of upwards of 2,500 people a DAY during the summer, it is no wonder they have a reputation for selling more cheese than any other store in the state. And the wine? A multitude of offerings - something for everyone, from the beginner to the experienced taster with almost 35 different wines being made. On any given visit, the free tasting will include almost a dozen of those:

2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Suzanne's Vineyard - Mostly apple and some grass on the nose. Tangy entry with acidic mid-palate. Long, tart finish which shows both herbaciousness and a bit of flinty minerality. 100% Stainless Steel. $16.25

2002 Chardonnay, Carneros - Light on the malo, mostly lemony tones up front.  Sharp, tangy mouthfeel with sharp, tropical fruits that produce a mostly tight, harsh finish. $25.00

2004 Off-Dry Johannisberg Riesling - (Not to be confused with their Dry Johannisberg Riesling!). At 2% residual sugar, mostly sweet offerings of apricot and melon with a distinct honeysuckle finish. $17.50

2003 Gamay Rouge - Downright fluorescent in color, this 1.5% residual sugar tasted shockingly sweeter than the previous Riesling offering. Overwhelming candied cherry and strawberry aromas with a Kool-Aid-like sweet, tinny taste and a mineral finish. $16.25

2001 Pinot Noir, Carneros; Henry Ranch - Harsh candy aromas with a hot, metallic entry. Dry in the middle with a licorice finish. $15.95

2002 Merlot, Carneros; Henry Ranch - Berry and spicy herbs in the bouquet but a hot entry that finishes rather thick and pasty. $25.00

2002 Howell Mountain Zinfandel - Dark, opulent berries with cinnamon and clove wafting behind the fruit. Velvety, soft entry with a long, complex finish. Quite a find! $30.00

2002 Contra Costa Zinfandel, Old Vine - From 48-year old vines. Plummy nose belies the spicy entry and dry, tannic finish. $26.00

2002 Preston Cabernet Sauvignon - Candy shop aromas produce cherry and oak flavors. Dry mid-palate with decent, even finish. $39.00

2002 Morisoli Cabernet Sauvignon - Dark blackberry and cherry with a hint of medicinal tones behind the fruit. Cherry entry with a mineral finish. $47.00

1997 Vin Santo - An intriguing combination of Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Cahaiola grapes. I couldn't get past the sweetness to discern taste. $25.00

2005 Muscat - Grape nose with candy and orange blossom flavors. Metallic, tinny finish. $17.00

NV Angelica - Interesting blend of a Muscat grapes blended with alembic brandy. Intensely aggressive with some orange behind the heat. $25.00

Madeira - "The oldest